Clutch CafeUnited Kingdom
Ships from United Kingdom
£230
Buy NowAdopted by the U. S. Army during the early 1940s, herringbone twill was developed as a hard-wearing fabric suited to both combat and protective use, including defence against gas. Generally coming in a single olive drab tone, it offered effective camouflage while maintaining durability in the field.
This Jacket, alongside the later issued Jungle Fatigue Jacket, are possibly two of the most reproduced military pieces, adopted by a number of contemporary brands, and ideal for the warmer seasons. This HBT jacket itself evolved through four subtle iterations between 1941 and 1943.
The first pattern featured cuffed sleeves and pleated chest pockets, while the second saw a shift toward larger, vertically elongated pockets with gussets, alongside a move to a straighter sleeve construction for improved practicality. By the third pattern, further refinements were introduced with function in mind.
A metal button was added to the back of the collar to allow for hood attachment, while a gas flap was integrated into the inside placket, enhancing airtightness and reinforcing its role as protective clothing. This addition led to garments being marked 'SPECIAL' on the label. This example from Buzz Rickson's is a great showcase of what the brand does best.
Cut in Japan from a custom herringbone twill, the two classic chest pockets with button flap closure have been paired with button cuff adjusters, with the inside material added to the placket for the gas flap. Across all issues of the jacket signature details remained: a front closure secured with black-painted 13-star metal buttons, and a distinctive spacing between the top buttons.
Finished with a single size tag. 100% cotton Herringbone twill (HBT) Based on US Army HBT Jacket Two large chest pockets w/button flap closure Button cuff adjusters Interior gas flap attached to placket Button front w/black painted 13 star buttons Finished with single size tag Made in Japan
Description from Clutch Cafe.

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