Raw Denim vs Selvedge: What Each Means and Why It Matters

Raw denim and selvedge denim describe two different things. Raw describes the finish: the cloth has not been washed or treated after weaving and dyeing, so it is stiff, dark and fades only where you wear it. Selvedge describes the edge: the cloth was woven on a shuttle loom, which leaves a clean, self-finished edge that shows on the outseam when you turn up the hem. A pair of jeans can be one, both or neither, so the useful question is not raw denim vs selvedge, but which of the two, or both, you want.

What raw denim means

Raw denim, also called dry denim, is denim as it comes off the dyeing and weaving process. Most jeans you can buy have been washed, often heavily, to soften the cloth and fade it in the factory. Raw jeans skip all of that. They start stiff and uniformly dark, and over months of wear they soften and fade to the shape of your body: whiskers across the hips, honeycombs behind the knees, the outline of your wallet or phone.

That is the whole appeal. A pair of raw jeans worn hard for a year looks like no other pair in the world.

Raw vs washed denim

Washed denim is comfortable from the first day and its look is fixed by the maker. Raw denim needs breaking in and its look is made by you. Washed jeans have already lost part of their indigo, so they will never fade with the same contrast as a raw pair.

Raw vs regular denim

"Regular" or "normal" denim usually means jeans that are pre-washed, often with stretch fibres and a factory fade. Raw denim is usually 100% cotton, heavier, and sold unwashed. Neither is better in every way, but raw denim lasts longer and ages with far more character.

What selvedge means

Selvedge, from "self edge", is the finished edge left by an old-style shuttle loom. The shuttle carries the weft yarn back and forth in one continuous length, turning at each edge, so the fabric seals itself. Modern projectile looms weave much wider cloth much faster and cut the weft at each pass, leaving an edge that must be overlocked.

When selvedge cloth is made into jeans, the edge runs down the outseam, often with a coloured line in the weave. Turn up the hem of a selvedge pair and you will see it. For the full story, read what selvedge denim is.

Selvedge jeans meaning, in short

Selvedge jeans are jeans cut from shuttle-loom cloth, with the finished edge used on the outseam. It says nothing about whether the jeans have been washed.

Is selvedge denim raw?

Not always. Most selvedge jeans are sold raw, because the people who care about how cloth is woven usually want to see it fade too. But many makers also sell selvedge jeans that have been rinsed once ("one wash") or washed to a vintage look. Equally, plenty of raw denim is not selvedge.

The four combinations

1. Raw selvedge. The enthusiast's choice: unwashed shuttle-loom cloth. Japanese makers such as Iron Heart and Momotaro, and American makers such as 3SIXTEEN, build most of their ranges around it.
2. Washed selvedge. Selvedge cloth that has been rinsed or washed. Comfortable from day one, with the construction and edge of a selvedge pair, but a fade that is partly decided for you.
3. Raw non-selvedge. Unwashed denim from a wide projectile loom. It fades like raw denim, often costs less, and is a sensible way to try raw jeans. Levi's Shrink-to-Fit 501 is the classic example.
4. Washed non-selvedge. Ordinary jeans, which is most of the denim sold in the world.

Which should you buy?

• If you want jeans that fade to your body, choose raw. Selvedge or not matters less than the cloth itself.
• If you care about how the cloth is made and want texture, choose selvedge, ideally raw.
• If you want comfort now and no break-in, a washed or one-wash selvedge pair gives you the quality without the stiff weeks.
• If you are on a budget, a raw non-selvedge pair teaches you whether you enjoy the process before you spend more.

Selvedge alone does not guarantee quality. A cheap jean can carry a selvedge edge; a good non-selvedge jean can be excellent. Look at the cloth weight, the cotton, the dyeing and the construction too. Brands such as Naked & Famous make both selvedge and non-selvedge raw denim, which makes them a good place to compare.

Sanforized and unsanforized: the third distinction

A raw jean can also be sanforized (pre-shrunk at the mill, shrinking only a little when washed) or unsanforized (shrinking much more, and usually soaked before wear). This matters more for sizing than raw or selvedge does. Our guide to sizing raw denim explains how to buy each, and how to wash raw denim covers the first soak and the first wash.

How to tell what you are buying

• Selvedge: turn up the hem and look for a clean edge with a coloured line, rather than a zig-zag of overlocking. Shop listings almost always say "selvedge" when it is.
• Raw: listings say raw, dry, rigid or unwashed. The cloth looks deep and even, and feels stiff.
• Sanforized: the listing or the brand's size chart should say. If it does not, ask the shop before you buy.

Compare prices and sizes

The same raw selvedge jeans are often sold by several shops at different prices, and the size you need may only be left in one. Browse men's jeans or women's jeans on HARDSTOC to compare every shop, or read our guide to the best Japanese denim brands to decide where to start.

Questions people ask

Is raw denim better than regular denim?

It lasts longer and fades with more character, because none of its strength or indigo has been washed away. It is less comfortable at first and needs more care, so it suits people who wear jeans often.

Can denim be selvedge but not raw?

Yes. Many brands sell rinsed or washed selvedge jeans. The selvedge edge comes from the loom; whether the jeans are washed is a separate choice.

Is raw denim always selvedge?

No. Raw simply means unwashed, and raw denim is woven on modern wide looms as well as shuttle looms.

Why are selvedge jeans more expensive?

Shuttle looms weave narrow cloth slowly, so each pair uses more fabric and more loom time, and selvedge jeans tend to be made with more careful construction.