How to Wash Raw Denim, and How to Break It In

To wash raw denim, turn the jeans inside out, button the fly and soak them in cold or lukewarm water with a small amount of mild detergent for around 30 to 45 minutes, then rinse and hang them to dry, never in a tumble dryer. Most people wait several months before the first wash so the jeans can crease and fade to their body. A washing machine on a cold, gentle cycle works too, and as long as you keep the water cool and the jeans out of the dryer, they will neither lose much colour nor shrink much.

When to wash raw denim for the first time

The first wash fixes the creases you have made into fades. Wash too early and the cloth relaxes before it has learned your shape; wait longer and the whiskers and honeycombs come out sharper.

• For strong fades, many enthusiasts wear their jeans daily for around six months before the first wash.
• For a softer, more even fade, a first wash after a few weeks is perfectly fine.
• For unsanforized jeans, there is a soak before any wear, to shrink them to size. That soak is not the "first wash" in this sense; see our guide to sizing raw denim.

The honest rule: wash them when they need it. Sweat and dirt wear cotton fibres faster, and a very dirty pair can tear at the crotch and knees sooner than a clean one.

How to wash raw denim in a bathtub

This is the gentlest method and gives you the most control over colour loss.

1. Prepare the jeans. Turn them inside out and button the fly. Empty the pockets.
2. Fill the bath. Use cold or lukewarm water, just enough to cover them. Add a small amount of mild detergent, preferably one made for dark clothes or for denim, and mix it in.
3. Soak. Lay the jeans flat and press them under. Leave them for 30 to 45 minutes, turning them once. Do not scrub or wring them.
4. Rinse. Drain the bath, refill with clean cold water and press the jeans a few times to rinse out the detergent.
5. Dry. Press out the water gently, then hang them by the belt loops or the hem, out of direct sun and away from radiators.

They will feel stiff as they dry and soften again within a day of wearing.

How to wash raw denim in a washing machine

A machine is fine, provided you treat the jeans gently.

• Turn them inside out and button the fly.
• Wash them alone, or with other dark denim, since raw indigo bleeds.
• Use a cold or 30°C cycle, the gentlest programme, and a low spin speed.
• Use a mild detergent and no bleach or optical brighteners.
• Hang them to dry. Never use a tumble dryer.

The first few machine washes of a raw pair will turn the water blue. That is normal, and so is some staining of the drum seals; run an empty rinse afterwards if it worries you.

How to wash raw denim without fading

Some colour loss is unavoidable, since indigo sits on the surface of the yarn. To keep as much as possible:

• Wash in cold water, inside out.
• Soak rather than machine wash, because agitation removes indigo faster.
• Use a detergent for dark colours, or a very small amount of a gentle one.
• Dry out of direct sunlight, which fades indigo.
• Wash only when they need it.

How to wash raw denim without shrinking

Heat shrinks cotton. Sanforized denim shrinks only a little whatever you do, around 1 to 3% on the first wash; unsanforized denim shrinks much more in warm water. To avoid shrinking either:

• Keep the water cold.
• Never tumble dry, and never dry on a radiator.
• Reshape the jeans while they are wet, pulling the legs gently to length.

If you are not sure which kind of denim you have, read raw denim vs selvedge, which explains the difference between the two.

Between washes

• Air them. Hang them outside or by an open window overnight.
• Spot clean. A damp cloth deals with most marks without a full wash.
• Do not rely on the freezer. Freezing jeans is a popular myth; it does not clean them.
• Repair early. A small hole at the crotch or knee is easy and cheap to darn before it spreads.

How to break in raw denim

Breaking in raw denim means wearing it until the stiff cloth softens and moulds to you. There is no shortcut that matches simple, regular wear.

The best way to break in raw denim

• Wear them every day. Consistent wear makes consistent creases, and consistent creases make sharp fades.
• Live in them. Sitting, cycling, walking, kneeling and carrying things all leave their mark.
• Keep your pockets the same. A wallet or phone in the same pocket every day leaves its outline.
• Be patient with heavy denim. A 21oz pair from Iron Heart or a slubby one from Samurai or Oni feels stiff for longer than a 13oz pair.
• Mind the colour. Raw indigo rubs off on light shoes, sofas and car seats for the first few weeks.

How long does it take to break in raw denim?

Most raw jeans feel comfortable within two to four weeks of daily wear. Heavy denim, from about 18oz upwards, can take longer. Visible fades usually begin within a few months, and the high-contrast fades people photograph come after six months to a year or more of regular wear.

What about soaking while wearing them?

An old method is to sit in a bath wearing unsanforized jeans, then wear them dry, so they shrink to your shape. It works, but it is cold and uncomfortable, and a normal soak followed by wear gets you most of the way there.

Compare prices and sizes

When a pair finally wears through, or you want a second one to rotate, the same jeans are usually sold by several independent shops at different prices. Browse men's jeans or women's jeans on HARDSTOC to compare every shop's price and stock in your size, or start with makers known for fading well, such as Momotaro and Pure Blue Japan. Our guide to the best Japanese denim brands explains how they differ.

Questions people ask

How often should you wash raw denim?

Only when it needs it. After the first wash, many people wash every few months or when the jeans smell or look dirty. There is no fixed rule.

Can you put raw denim in the washing machine?

Yes, inside out, on a cold, gentle cycle with mild detergent and a low spin. Hang to dry.

Should you wash raw denim before wearing it?

Only if it is unsanforized and you need to shrink it to size. Sanforized raw denim can be worn straight away.

Will raw denim bleed indigo?

Yes, especially in the first months and the first few washes. Wash it alone or with dark clothes, and expect some colour on light shoes and furniture early on.