How to Size Raw Denim: Measure, Compare and Allow for Shrinkage

To size raw denim, ignore the size on the label and work from measurements. Lay your best-fitting jeans flat, measure the waist, rise, thigh, knee, leg opening and inseam, then compare those numbers with the shop's size chart for the pair you want. Check whether the cloth is sanforized (it will shrink only a little and the waist will stretch) or unsanforized (it will shrink noticeably when soaked and should be bought larger). Get those three steps right and raw jeans fit as well as any jeans you own.

Why raw denim is harder to size

Raw denim changes. It has not been washed, so a pair may shrink on its first soak or wash, and 100% cotton cloth stretches as you wear it, mostly at the waist and the seat. Tag sizes are no help either: one brand's 32 can measure 33 or 34 inches around, and Japanese brands often size closer to the true measurement than high street labels do. The only reliable guide is a tape measure.

How to measure raw denim

Use the jeans that fit you best, ideally ones that are not stretchy. Button them up, lay them flat on a table and smooth out the creases. Measure in inches or centimetres, whichever the shop uses.

• Waist: straight across the top of the waistband, from edge to edge, then double it.
• Front rise: from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband at the front, including the waistband.
• Back rise: the same at the back, from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband.
• Thigh: straight across the leg, about an inch below the crotch. Shops differ, so check where their chart measures it.
• Knee: across the leg, usually around 13 inches below the crotch, or at the point the chart names.
• Leg opening: straight across the hem.
• Inseam: along the inside seam, from the crotch to the hem.

Write the numbers down. They are your reference for every pair you buy from now on.

Compare with the shop's chart

Each brand and many shops publish measurements for every size of every model. Look for the size whose numbers sit closest to yours, starting with the waist and the rise, which decide whether the jeans fit at all. Thigh and leg opening decide the shape. The inseam matters least, because raw jeans are usually bought long and hemmed.

Read what the chart describes. Some list the measurements raw, before any washing, some after a soak, and some give both. That one line changes which size you should choose.

How to size selvedge denim

Selvedge describes how the cloth was woven, not how it behaves, so selvedge jeans are sized exactly like any raw denim. What matters is whether the cloth is sanforized. If you are not sure of the difference, read raw denim vs selvedge first.

Sanforized vs unsanforized

Sanforized denim has been pre-shrunk at the mill. On its first wash it typically shrinks about 1 to 3%, and the waist stretches back out within a few wears.

Unsanforized denim, sometimes called loomstate or shrink-to-fit, has not. Shrinkage figures vary by cloth and by method, but brands and specialist shops commonly quote 5 to 10% overall, with roughly 1 to 2 inches lost in the waist and the inseam after a first soak.

Sizing sanforized raw denim

• Choose the size that matches your measurements, or is up to about an inch snug in the waist.
• Expect the waist to stretch by around half an inch to an inch as you wear them.
• Allow a little extra inseam if you will wash them before hemming.

Sizing unsanforized raw denim

• Follow the brand's chart for after-soak measurements if it gives them. Otherwise most brands advise going up one or two sizes from your usual waist.
• Expect an inch or so of the waist shrinkage to come back with wear.
• Buy the leg long and hem only after the soak, when the length has settled.

How much does raw denim stretch?

Mostly at the waist and seat, which typically give between half an inch and an inch with regular wear. The rise, thigh and length stretch very little. Heavier denim gives less than lighter denim. So buy jeans that are snug at the waist, but never jeans you cannot sit down in, and never rely on the thighs or rise to loosen up.

How to shrink raw denim

Unsanforized jeans are usually shrunk before you wear them by soaking:

1. Turn the jeans inside out and button the fly.
2. Fill a bath with enough lukewarm water to cover them. Warmer water shrinks more; start cooler if you are unsure.
3. Soak for 30 to 60 minutes, pressing them under occasionally. Do not scrub or twist.
4. Drain, press out the water gently, and hang them to dry, away from direct heat.

If they are still too large, repeat with warmer water. Our guide to washing raw denim covers the soak and every wash after it in more detail.

A sanforized pair does not need soaking. Many people wear them unwashed for months instead.

A few practical points

• Hems: wait until after the first soak or wash to hem, and ask for a chain-stitched hem if you want the roping fade at the bottom of the leg.
• Different models, different numbers: even within one brand, a slim and a straight fit in the same tag size measure differently. Always check the chart for the exact model.
• Women's jeans: the same method applies. Measure your best pair and compare with the chart.

Compare prices and sizes

Once you know your numbers, the hard part is finding the size in stock. The same jeans are often sold by several shops, and one may have your waist and length when another has sold out. Browse men's jeans or women's jeans on HARDSTOC to see every shop's price and sizes at once, or start with a brand such as Iron Heart, Momotaro, Pure Blue Japan or Full Count. For help choosing between them, read our guide to the best Japanese denim brands.

Questions people ask

Should I size up or down in raw denim?

For sanforized jeans, take your true waist measurement or go slightly snug, since the waist stretches. For unsanforized jeans, size up, usually by one or two sizes, unless the chart already gives post-soak measurements.

How tight should raw denim be at first?

Snug at the waist, with the button closing without strain, and comfortable enough to sit and bend. They will relax at the waist and seat but not much elsewhere.

Does raw denim shrink in length?

Yes, unsanforized denim can lose 1 to 2 inches of inseam on the first soak. Sanforized denim loses very little. Hem after the first wash.

What is the difference between tag size and true waist?

The tag size is the brand's label; the true waist is what you measure. They can differ by an inch or more, which is why measurements are the only reliable way to buy.